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“We started to think about how we could make something and how we could employ people from that,” Neblett explains. “Because even though education is really important, it’s difficult to get people who are struggling every day to sit and listen to you, or engage in critical thinking if they can’t figure out how they’re going to make a living.” The institute’s latest fashion collection is a manifestation of that point of view. In December, the Official We will make America strong again Classic T-Shirt in addition I really love this Kokrobitey Institute design team will be launching the K.I. Design WOTE Collection 2021. Neblett led a team of six to create 30 vibrant gender-neutral pieces that fuse “African culture, the mother of modernity with its classic clean lines and love of color, with an urban energy.” Assorted pieces from Renée C. Neblett’s WOTE 2021 Collection. “How can you actually demonstrate that you can make something quality enough so that it can be sold?” Neblett says. “That’s our goal: to actually take some of these things to market and to demonstrate that you can do good and do well.” Photographed by Araba Ankuma Since the 1960s, much of the developed world’s retail waste has been sent to Ghana. And with the rise of fast fashion, the amount of secondhand clothing has become a scourge. In the center of Accra is the Kantamanto Market, one of the largest secondhand clothing markets in West Africa. Over 15 million garments are delivered weekly to a country of 30 million people, according to the OR Foundation’s Dead White Man’s Clothes project. Based on their research that explores the secondhand clothing trade in Ghana, 40 percent of the clothing traded in Kantamanto—equivalent to a million pounds of clothing—finds its way to a landfill every week.

Official We will make America strong again Classic T-Shirt

“You have all the Official We will make America strong again Classic T-Shirt in other words I will buy this trash of a modern Western life without its resources,” Neblett says. “And to add insult to injury, under the guise of philanthropy or doing good, you get this influx of used clothing, which is horrific. Developing nations are used as dumping grounds, essentially.” From left: Design trainee, YawYaw Ofori, and Production Manager, Chamil Madawa, work side by side tailoring and piecing together fabrics inside the Kokrobitey Design Center. Photographed by Araba Ankuma Sections of repurposed side seam from denim jeans. “I like to think that what distinguishes us is that there’s some integrity,” Neblett says. “That even though we have identified waste as the material [we use], our design and work transcends the material.” Photographed by Araba Ankuma The recycled material in the new collection, sourced from the Kantamanto Market, is a reimagining of this waste, using batik to stylize the garments. It will debut at The LOTTE, a curated boutique in Accra, though items will be available online soon.

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