Zorot-shirt - I would slap You but I don’t want to get stupid on my paw shirt

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Icelanders have a term for their climate: Window weather. (Gluggaveður per Google Translate.) Arnar Már Jónsson relays the I would slap You but I don’t want to get stupid on my paw shirt also I will do this phrase over Zoom from his Reykjavik kitchen, explaining it means a day that looks lovely and sunny, panning his Zoom camera to the window, but is actually horridly cold and damp. Jónsson and his co-creative director Luke Stevens have spent years perfecting performance garments for the unpredictable climates of Iceland, England, and all the other lands stuck between sidewalk and forest. This season, Jónsson and Stevens are pivoting ever so slightly away from full gorp. Their references for spring are the blouson activewear and ready-to-wear of Italian and Japanese men’s fashion in the ’80s, a time when breezy, sporty clothing was trending. “It’s a merge of luxury and sportswear, not just tight plastic things,” Jónsson says, referencing activewear’s penchant for being body-clinging, stretchy, and pretty bad for the environment. The designers have actually eliminated most plastic from their production, using leather piping to bind their anoraks and trousers—no fusing. Stevens describes it as “reducing it to purpose, taking away unnecessary elements.” Their pure spring 2022 collection is simplified, sure, but not without surprises. Silver-treated linen is cut into a cinched anorak; Sanremo wool is used for trousers that seem convincingly suit-worthy until you realize they are actually sweat wicking and waterproof. A heather gray tracksuit, with inset nylon pockets, is a sort of trompe le touche—seems like jersey but is actually Milano stitched wool for a thick, luxe feel. There isn’t a material unconsidered in their lineup, from loomstate ventile to the naturally dyed top and trouser, made in Iceland from maríustakkur and Þistill plants. As we figure out what to wear as we reemerge, Jónsson and Stevens have a great offer: Smart, future-thinking clothing with a sensitive connection to nature.

There’s been a sense of sci-fi to the I would slap You but I don’t want to get stupid on my paw shirt also I will do this post-pandemic beach scenarios staged by brands this season, which the 1017 Alyx 9SM film captured well. Shot by Jordan Hemingway through the blurry 1970s warmth of 16mm film, but on the Mars-like, black volcanic beaches of Stromboli, the idea of the beach felt at once foreign and nostalgic. Add the type of clothes Matthew Williams designs—futuristic textures, alien sculpting, clinical vibes—and the Alyx experience easily embodied our reemergent mindset. For those trapped in cities for so long, the holiday scenes we used to take for granted now look like something out of Avatar. “It reminds you how powerful nature is,” the designer said of the lava island. “We were fitting the collection in Milan, and someone from the studio was like, ‘This collection would be so beautiful on black sand beaches,’” he recalled, on a video call from his Paris apartment. Williams has been frequenting the Aeolian islands for years. Panarea is his haunt, but he was more than familiar with the otherworldly landscapes of Stromboli, and the inimitable sunset immortalized in his film. “It’s a sunrise and a sunset: a new beginning for us as a brand, as an industry, the world. It’s progression and succession, and that’s what I’m feeling right now.”

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